Austin Tree Experts



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September 8, 2009

Soil Restructuring. An Important Part of Tree Care.

Soil restructuring is one of the most powerful tools we have for tree health management. The idea is to till the soil; improving its structure will allow valuable air and water to more easily penetrate the soil. While fundamental in gardening theory, this task is not easy at the scale of a large tree.

One of the first challenges we must deal with is maintaining tree roots while tilling the soil. After all, we are trying to help the trees here! This challenge is overcome by use of a tool called an airspade. An airspade is an over powered air compressor that blows away dirt without damaging the tree roots. There is just enough power to displace soil, but not enough to cut through roots.

In most scenarios, we will till the top 4-8” of soil depending on the site conditions. We’ll then add about 2” of finely ground mulch or other organic matter and then re-till the soil to get it all mixed up good. Once this part of the process is completed we’ll top dress it with about 4” of mulch.

The end product is an inviting soil that is great for growing anything. This is as close to mimicking a natural forest floor as we can get in an urban environment. Add a few small to mid size shrubs to provide an additional layer of shade to the soil surface and some irrigation and you’ll have a full blown tree utopia!

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Filed under: Fertilize, Sick Tree Keith @ 7:44 am

September 1, 2009

Part 4. Tree Fertilizer Products. What to Use.

There are a variety of tree fertilizers out there. Knowing which ones to use can be very confusing. And, to make matters worse, many quality tree friendly products are really “fertilizers” at all. Most of the products in the line I use for my companies treatment programs are alternative products (I don’t like the word “organic,” it is confusing to many and misleading). Here is a list of the products I think are the best:

  1. Fertilizers – Urea has been regarded as the best nitrogen source for trees lately. It comes in many forms, but I believe that urea-formaldehyde and methyl-based urea are the best choices. I use a product called Coron that is a methyl-based urea.
  2. Mycorrhizae (my-core-rize-uh) – These are fungi that grow on the existing root system of trees and then make their own root like system. The fungi then share the water and nutrients they absorb with the tree in exchange for sugars. These fungal spores are readily available to be applied to the soil. This is a great way to improve the water absorbing ability of a tree, and can be very beneficial during our hot, dry summers.
  3. Humates – I use a raw form of humic acid derived from leonardite. Humic acid is by-product of composting organic matter and is know to provide many, many benefits. The two most important benefits (in my opinion) are soil structure improvements and hormone balancing. We know that humic acids help break up tightly compacted soils which improves water and air penetration into the soil. Much of the hormone balancing effects are not fully understood, but I can confirm that regular use of humic acid applied both to the soil and sprayed into the canopy result in noticeably healthier trees. We use humic acid with every treatment we apply.
  4. Growth hormones – I’m going to keep this simple to avoid a science class article. Application of a balanced mix of growth hormones has a fantastic effect on helping foliage develop to its maximum potential and stimulating root growth. If you can find a product that has a balanced mix then go for it. But, if you don’t know what you are doing, then skip this one.
  5. Micro-nutrient, vitamis and enzymes – All the good stuff we need just a little of. This is like taking your vitamins. Use of these products helps both tree growth and development and improves soil health, in turn, helping the tree. A tree fertilizer / treatment program without these products is surely incomplete.
  6. Soil restructuring – This is a process, not a product. But, soil restructuring is one of the most powerful tools we have to help trees in extreme urban environments. The idea is to take sterile, urbanized soils and reincorporate rich organic matter back into the soil. Fundamental in garden theory, but very difficult to accomplish on the scale of a large tree.

You should have noticed in my fertilizer discussion that only nitrogen was included. There was no mention of phosphorus or potassium. It has been my experience that application of these two fertilizers don’t generally provide noticeable improvements in tree health. Due to this fact and that high phosphates cause problems with the local streams in central Texas I don’t see the point in applying these other fertilizers.

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Filed under: Fertilize Keith @ 7:41 am

August 24, 2009

Part 3. How to Apply Treatments to Trees

There are a variety of ways to apply tree fertilizers and other treatments. For the average layperson, applications to a tree can be challenging. High pressure sprayers are readily available at equipment rental stores, so you can do it yourself, but this equipment is not easy to use. Accessing a tree’s root system deep in the soil or reaching the upper boundaries of canopy on a mature tree requires this special equipment.

Deep root injections are the most common application techniques for tree fertilizing. A pressurized water pump system is used with a “deep-root needle” attached to the end. This needle is inserted into the soil to the desired depth; usually 6-18” deep depending on the site’s soil. The treatments are applied every 2-3′ in a grid pattern throughout the drip-line of the tree. This technique provides a few important benefits. Applications made deep into the soil bypass turf and other small landscape plants root system so competition is reduced. Also, the root needle is about 1” in diameter so everywhere it is inserted a hole is left behind. Soil aeration is an indirect benefit from this application technique.

The next most common application technique for tree treatments is a canopy spray. There are several scenarios when product needs to be applied directly to the foliage. Such as treatment for many foliar fungal diseases, or when we apply our growth hormone treatment to foliage in the spring. Special care must be taken with this application technique. You must make sure the product is not going to be harmful to adjacent plants and the treatment technique should not be done on windy days.

Two techniques for trees that are good for providing direct access to trees systems while maintaining minimal environmental exposure are injections and basal drenches. A trunk injection works much like an I.V. works on you when you go to the hospital. Holes are drilled directly into the tree and a pressurized system delivers the treatment straight into the xylem of the vascular system. Basal drench is just as it sounds. A small concentrated product is poured around the base of the tree and is slow release delivered to the tree over time. By digging a moat before application and covering over when finished, there is very minimal chance of any person or animal being exposed to the treatment.

My hope is that future tree fertilizers and treatments will applied by trunk spray. There is a product out there called Pentra-Bark. Mixed with a treatment products , Pentra-Bark forces the product to absorb through the bark and into the tree’s vascular system. This treatment technique is non destructive to the tree (unlike trunk injections) and provides direct access to the trees system. Using the trees own vascular system to distribute product is very smart. Currently there are no treatments labeled for use with trunk spray technique here in central Texas, but my hope is that this well begin to change soon.

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Filed under: Fertilize Keith @ 7:40 am

August 17, 2009

Tree Fertilizer, Part 2: When to Fertilize Trees

Timing might be the most important factor to successful tree fertilizer applications. Even if you use quality products you can injure a tree by providing the wrong fertilizer at the wrong time of year. I like to describe tree fertilizing by comparing to grass fertilization practices. You can fertilize grass virtually any time of the year with a variety of products and get the same results: greener grass and faster growth. This is because grass is in a constant state of growth (evident by weekly mowing needs). Trees are not in a constant state of growth, so you can’t apply a product at any time. Instead, trees go through a series of growth stages throughout the year.

Most of a trees annual root growth takes place in the fall. So, the fall is the best time of year to apply a conventional fertilizer. A conventional fertilizer consists of nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium. This is the kind of treatment that is going to directly stimulate growth. If you are going to directly stimulate growth for a tree it should be targeted toward the roots. There are other products you’ll need in your arsenal for a really great treatment regimen; see my Tree Treatment Products article for more information on this.

In the early spring trees are focusing most of their energy on foliage development. All of our native hardwoods produce an entire new set of foliage every spring. If you apply a conventional fertilizer when the foliage is growing you are going to wind up with abnormally large foliage. This can be a big problem if there isn’t a root system to support those oversized leaves. When our hot summer days get here you can get major heat stress and foliage burn from over sized foliage. Applying some humic acid and/or growth hormones during this time of year will help develop thicker, greener leaves. This is the direction you need to go. Thicker greener leaves will be better and conserving water when heat stress gets here and they will be better energy producers all year long.

Throughout most of the rest of the growing season trees in Austin aren’t growing much at all. This is primarily an energy producing time. The trees are getting ready for the fall’s root growing season and storing energy for next spring’s foliage development. Applying a fertilizer in the summer will likely not produce anything but fertilizer leaching into the adjacent properties and ground water supply. However, there are some specialized fungi you can apply in spore form to the soil that can help. They are called mycorrhizae (my-core-rize-ah). These fungi attach to the root system of the tree; they grow their own root like system; then, share what they absorb with the tree. This is a great way to improve the water absorbing ability of the tree during the hottest and driest time of the year. Another good thing you can do in the spring is apply humic acid to the soil. This stuff is the by-product of natural composting and is readily available to buy at most garden stores. It is usually sold as a “root stimulator” or “compost tea”. Look at the label of these products and you’ll see they contain a significant percentage of something that begins with “hum”.

And, don’t forget about diagnosis. You need to know the state of health of you trees before you can expect to keep them healthy. Look at my articles about sick trees.

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Filed under: Fertilize Keith @ 7:38 am

August 10, 2009

Tree Fertilizer Part 1. An Introduction.

Fertilizing your tree will provide a big impact to the health of your tree in both the short term and long term. More than pruning, more than any other tree care service. There is a lot to know about tree fertilizers. This article is meant to be an introduction to tree fertilizer. I highly recommend you read my three other articles in this series: When to Fertilize trees, How to Apply Fertilizers to Trees, and What Products to Use for Fertilizing Trees.

You can compare tree fertilization to your own health care. Without it, you are not going to wither and die tomorrow. But, with proper health care (fertilization regimen) your tree will have a healthier, more full canopy of foliage. And, if a good fertilization regimen is followed for a few consecutive years, sick trees can return to a healthy state and regain extended life expectancy.

One of the biggest misconceptions I find people to have is a perception that tree fertilization mostly make a tree grow faster. I can see where someone would come to this conclusion. Most of us get our experience in fertilizers from grass fertilizing. Grass fertilizers do result in faster growing grass. Trees are different that grass. Grass is in a constant state of growth and trees only grow a few times a year; we call these growth increments flushes. The ultimate goal with trees is to time the right treatments so that roots are stimulated to grow faster, but foliage is stimulated to develop better (not grow faster).

Timing is critical. Here are the basics you need to know about timing: most root growth takes place in the fall; most foliage growth takes place in early spring; there is not much growth in the middle of the “growing season.” With this knowledge you should be able to deduct that fertilizing in the summer would be a waste of time. During the spring you should use unconventional treatments to stimulate healthy development not conventional fertilizers that would stimulate growth. Your conventional fertilizer should be applied in the fall when roots are doing most of their growing.

Here are some common comments I hear about tree fertilizing:

Q: These trees were growing here long before I was here. They didn’t need fertilizer before, why now?
A: Ok, true. But, before you were here there was a natural balance of nutrient recycling. Now, the soil’s litter layer is gone and replace with grass.

Q: Fertilizing is just going to make it grow faster, then I’ll have to prune it more.
A: We just discussed that a good fertilizer regimen doesn’t stimulate growth. Quite the opposite, healthier trees will produce fewer dead limbs over time, therefore, reducing pruning needs.

Q: I don’t like putting chemicals in my yard.
A: You shouldn’t. But, what are you considering as chemical? Fertilizers are less harsh that virtually any cleaning supply you use and you actually get that stuff all over your hands and up your nose. And, if you get your timing right you can reduce your application rate dramatically. We target about ¼ lb nitrogen per medium sized tree per year. That’s 12 times less that what is recommended for 1000 sq. ft. of lawn. Every other product we use is not chemical at all (see my article on what products to use for trees).

One last topic I want to discuss before leaving is soil restructuring. Many of the trees in our urban environment get left with small little islands of soil to grow from. There is a tool called an air-spade we use to air-till the soil and mix organic matter in. Tilling with this over-powered air compressor allows us to till the soil without destroying all the tree roots. This treatment is a huge improvement to the soil structure and is great for all trees, especially those in limited rooting environments.

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Filed under: Fertilize, Sick Tree Keith @ 7:34 am