Bradford pear trees have become a popular addition to the urban landscape. Although the Bradford pear is a hardy tree consistently producing showy flowers in the spring and some fall color, the tree is not without its fair share of problems. The trees have a relatively short life span due to structural integrity issues, they are susceptible to a few disease issues and they can be overbearing on landscapes with limited space.
The average life expectancy of a Bradford pear is about 15 years. While the tree is capable of producing viable foliage for more than 15 years, this is typically how long the tree will last before it begins to fall apart. The numerous branches that originate at a central point cause structural defects that lead to the splitting apart of the tree (see pic). Pruning the tree to promote more upright growth and installing cables and braces to support weak joints can add to the life of the tree. In some cases, with regular maintenance and inspections, a bradford pear may last 20 or even 25 years.
For the most part, Bradford pears are highly resistant to disease and insects. There aren’t any know major insect problems and only two disease that commonly get into Bradford pears: fire blight and bacterial leaf scorch. 
Both diseases are treatable. Fire blight needs to be caught early to prevent significant damage. In fire blight the disease starts at twig ends and progresses back toward the main stem. The dead foliage will be a very dark brown and remain attached to the tree. In bacterial leaf scorch the leaves will turn a light color brown and fall from the tree similarly to normal leaf drop.
Bradford pears can be a good landscape plant if you are looking for a temporary (short lived) tree and there is adequate room for growth (need minimum of 10-15′ in all directions). In small spaces the pear can be overbearing as they grow very quickly and block virtually all sun when full grown. They also produce large amounts of surface roots so they shouldn’t be planted where lawn/soil surface needs to be smooth such as high traffic areas or near concrete patios that may be broken by the tree roots.
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I'm Keith Brown, owner of Austin Tree Experts. This is my repository of tree knowledge. I hope you find what you are looking for. Let me know if you don't.
Despite their standing as one of the most popular landscape trees in the Southeast, Bradford pears aren’t what they’re cracked up to be.
For despite all the beauty they lend to thousands of landscapes throughout the region, the trees are plagued with one fatal flaw: due to their combination of vigorous growth, weak wood and poor branch structure, they often begin falling apart after only 20 years.
Experts say homeowners and others would be far better off buying other trees – trees that lend beauty to the landscape and last longer.
My neighbor planted a few of these and they have such beautiful fall colors that I would love to have some in my yard. But now that I’m reading that they are “genetically prone to self-destruction” and have abundant surface roots, I’m inclined to stay away from them. Can you suggest other quick growing trees for a small Northwest Austin yard? I’m looking for a tree that flowers in the spring and that offers beautiful rich fall colors. I hate surface roots. I have a crepe myrtle that doesn’t ever seem to do too well in our yard. I also have one Arizona Ash left that is doing fairly well considering its age. Something smaller would be fine.
Your “structural integrity issues” is even more forgiving that Dirr’s comment in one book which was “genetically prone to self-destruction”.
Those trees here in the Portland landscape, also break apart pretty good. And even new varieties have not overcome the brittleness which occassional ice here will snap.
MDV / Oregon
I wouldn’t disagree with the quote:
“genetically prone to self-destruction”
Hi, I believe my BP, which is 20 years old, but still structurally sound has developed BLS…it’s dropping its leaves in July, they look brown, as if it’s Fall. This has been going on for several seasons, but the tree comes back beautifully in the Spring! Should I treat it now or wait until the Spring? Thanks!
Sooner the better on the treatment. It is not uncommon to have to spray more than once on 2-3 week intervals if you go the strobomyacin route. But, definately follow the manufacturers label for whatever product you use.
Even if you treat now, which is a good idea; you should do it again in the spring to be on the safe side.
I have a 4 year old Bradford Pear and every year I detect around the middle of July that the leaves turn brown and fall from tree .just like they would if it was October.Not all at once but slowly over time. I believe it is Bacterial Leaf Scorch.How can I treat this problem Thank you Susanne I live in North Texas.
If you have normal leaf drop where the color change is just like fall, it is more likely that your tree just has heat stress. Usually with BLS you will see a weird mottled color pattern when the leaf dies. Considering the tree is young it may be having trouble getting it’s roots established. So when the Texas heat kicks in in July there simply aren’t enough roots to support the canopy and the tree is shedding leaves. This is pretty common on Texas trees. Try watering it a little extra and give it a root fertilization in early October and see what happens next year. If it is BLS you can treat with strobomyacin (if available) or Rainbow sells a product that you can use: http://www.rainbowscivance.com/bacastat/index.asp
I have a BP tree that is in the middle of two more. It looks to have fire blight. It is starting to get on the leaves on one next to it. Do I need to dig it up or can it be treated? Please let me know asap. I am afraid I let it go like this too long.
Fire blight is treatable. A copper-hydroxide fungicide, such as Kocide, will get the job done. You will have to spray the trees two or three times at 2-3 week intervals. Bradford Pears rarely die back so much in one season that they become untreatable.