Bradford pear trees have become a popular addition to the urban landscape. Although the Bradford pear is a hardy tree consistently producing showy flowers in the spring and some fall color, the tree is not without its fair share of problems. The trees have a relatively short life span due to structural integrity issues, they are susceptible to a few disease issues and they can be overbearing on landscapes with limited space.
The average life expectancy of a Bradford pear is about 15 years. While the tree is capable of producing viable foliage for more than 15 years, this is typically how long the tree will last before it begins to fall apart. The numerous branches that originate at a central point cause structural defects that lead to the splitting apart of the tree (see pic). Pruning the tree to promote more upright growth and installing cables and braces to support weak joints can add to the life of the tree. In some cases, with regular maintenance and inspections, a bradford pear may last 20 or even 25 years.
For the most part, Bradford pears are highly resistant to disease and insects. There aren’t any know major insect problems and only two disease that commonly get into Bradford pears: fire blight and bacterial leaf scorch. 
Both diseases are treatable. Fire blight needs to be caught early to prevent significant damage. In fire blight the disease starts at twig ends and progresses back toward the main stem. The dead foliage will be a very dark brown and remain attached to the tree. In bacterial leaf scorch the leaves will turn a light color brown and fall from the tree similarly to normal leaf drop.
Bradford pears can be a good landscape plant if you are looking for a temporary (short lived) tree and there is adequate room for growth (need minimum of 10-15′ in all directions). In small spaces the pear can be overbearing as they grow very quickly and block virtually all sun when full grown. They also produce large amounts of surface roots so they shouldn’t be planted where lawn/soil surface needs to be smooth such as high traffic areas or near concrete patios that may be broken by the tree roots.
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I'm Keith Brown, owner of Austin Tree Experts. This is my repository of tree knowledge. I hope you find what you are looking for.
Hi Keith – I have a bradford pear that is about 3 years old and the bark is separating from the trunk. I had read somewhere it could be due to a boring beetle. Is that your opinion and what would you recommend? The tress is blooming and has fruit on it, but the bark is split from the base all the way up (about 4′ to the first major branch). Thanks
That could be many things. Can you upload some pictures to look at?
Hi Keith,
Here are some pictures of my tree. Some of the branches have new growth on them, but the leaves will be spotted before long. The apples/pears have spots also. The tree was here when we moved here a year ago, so I don’t have any idea of the tree’s age. We live in Southwest Austin. Thanks so much,
Robin
It looks like an old pear tree that has been declining for a while. Obviously, it is doing worse now than it has been, but I see symptoms that it has been stressed for years. I wouldn’t recommend expending the energy to diagnose the two or three disorders it has; the tree is too old and appears to be beyond a threshold of responding to treatment. If you do anything, start with a fertilizer regimen. Check out my do it yourself fertilizer article to get going in the right direction
Keith, we purchased a small Bradford Pear tree this year and it is developing some kind of infection/mold on the branches. The disease leaves a bright orange dotted powder and is a kind of canker — above the orange canker, the leaves become distorted.
I cut off the offending branches (which has grown considerably since I first noticed it). Should I send a photo? I live in North Carolina..had no idea of the problems of the tree when I bought it for $15 at a discount store!
Thanks so much!
You are in a vastly different region that Austin; your neck of the woods gets a much different set of insects and diseases than what we get. There is no disease I’m in the Austin area that matches up with your description. You’ll definitely need to find a local arborist if you want some nitty-gritty details.
I can tell you that you are on the right track. For stem canker type diseases step one is always to remove the diseased limbs. If you can get a positive diagnosis on the type of canker, you might find a product labeled to treat it. However, usually, in my experiences, a proper fertilization and watering regimen will usually get a tree’s health back to a point where it can help itself (provided the site conditions are good – drainage, soil type, etc.)
I have a 17 year old bradford pear in my front yard. There used to be two of them about 8 feet apart, but finally cut down the other last year. This one is very overgrown and only been trimmed from the bottom by us for the last 7 years (now it seems to be very thick and top heavy). A landscaper came to our door and offered to prune it for $250. Which made me think, is it worth it to prune it, or more worth it to spend the money to cut it down? And, don’t worry, if we do spend the money to prune it, it won’t be by a non-tree expert that solicited at our front door.
One of my Bradford Pear trees bloomed nicely but then the blooms just died and no green leaves came on. The other three bloomed nicely too. But now one of them is starting to loose it’s green leaves now. So far the other two are fine. What could be the problem?
I have a BP tree that I believe to have BLS. The tree is 9 years old. It has been getting progressively worse. I think this is the third season of the disease. Now the bark is starting to release from the trunk. The tree does not bloom as fast as the other trees. This tree looks naked next to the others. While the rest of the trees are in full bloom this one is not even half. however it does have new growth. Can the tree be saved.
Your comment inspired me to add a feature to allow picture uploads. If you can upload a picture, it would help me understand your problem better. Anyway, here is some feedback…
Bark separating from the trunk is not a symptom of BLS. It might be that the tree has declined to the point that part of the vascular system is failing, in turn bark falling away from where the veins underneath have die. But, I doubt that is the case. Regardless of the cause, if your Bradford pear is 9 years old with these major problems, expending lots of energy and $$ will not pay off for you. Bradford pears have a short life span and yours is getting old for its kind.
My Bradford pear seems to be having major trouble. It’s yellowing and the leaf clusters on the end of some branches are drying up and dying, while some leaves are perfectly normal. Is that Fire Blight? There are pictures here: http://www.runawayoctober.com/2010/04/whats-wrong-with-my-tree/
ANY help is appreciated!
Thanks!
It does look like fire blight the way the twigs are turning dark brown. I don’t know what the weather is like there, but a cold snap while the tree was budding out could cause this symptom, too. Bradford pears should have a more dense branching pattern and thicker foliage that what your little pear has. This makes me think it may have been stressed before it ever got to your house. Some pictures of where the trunk goes into the ground might help me. Regional differences for trees are huge. A local arborist should be able to help you better than me.
Despite their standing as one of the most popular landscape trees in the Southeast, Bradford pears aren’t what they’re cracked up to be.
For despite all the beauty they lend to thousands of landscapes throughout the region, the trees are plagued with one fatal flaw: due to their combination of vigorous growth, weak wood and poor branch structure, they often begin falling apart after only 20 years.
Experts say homeowners and others would be far better off buying other trees – trees that lend beauty to the landscape and last longer.
My neighbor planted a few of these and they have such beautiful fall colors that I would love to have some in my yard. But now that I’m reading that they are “genetically prone to self-destruction” and have abundant surface roots, I’m inclined to stay away from them. Can you suggest other quick growing trees for a small Northwest Austin yard? I’m looking for a tree that flowers in the spring and that offers beautiful rich fall colors. I hate surface roots. I have a crepe myrtle that doesn’t ever seem to do too well in our yard. I also have one Arizona Ash left that is doing fairly well considering its age. Something smaller would be fine.
Your “structural integrity issues” is even more forgiving that Dirr’s comment in one book which was “genetically prone to self-destruction”.
Those trees here in the Portland landscape, also break apart pretty good. And even new varieties have not overcome the brittleness which occassional ice here will snap.
MDV / Oregon
I wouldn’t disagree with the quote:
“genetically prone to self-destruction”
Hi, I believe my BP, which is 20 years old, but still structurally sound has developed BLS…it’s dropping its leaves in July, they look brown, as if it’s Fall. This has been going on for several seasons, but the tree comes back beautifully in the Spring! Should I treat it now or wait until the Spring? Thanks!
Sooner the better on the treatment. It is not uncommon to have to spray more than once on 2-3 week intervals if you go the strobomyacin route. But, definately follow the manufacturers label for whatever product you use.
Even if you treat now, which is a good idea; you should do it again in the spring to be on the safe side.
I have a 4 year old Bradford Pear and every year I detect around the middle of July that the leaves turn brown and fall from tree .just like they would if it was October.Not all at once but slowly over time. I believe it is Bacterial Leaf Scorch.How can I treat this problem Thank you Susanne I live in North Texas.
If you have normal leaf drop where the color change is just like fall, it is more likely that your tree just has heat stress. Usually with BLS you will see a weird mottled color pattern when the leaf dies. Considering the tree is young it may be having trouble getting it’s roots established. So when the Texas heat kicks in in July there simply aren’t enough roots to support the canopy and the tree is shedding leaves. This is pretty common on Texas trees. Try watering it a little extra and give it a root fertilization in early October and see what happens next year. If it is BLS you can treat with strobomyacin (if available) or Rainbow sells a product that you can use: http://www.rainbowscivance.com/bacastat/index.asp
I have a BP tree that is in the middle of two more. It looks to have fire blight. It is starting to get on the leaves on one next to it. Do I need to dig it up or can it be treated? Please let me know asap. I am afraid I let it go like this too long.
Fire blight is treatable. A copper-hydroxide fungicide, such as Kocide, will get the job done. You will have to spray the trees two or three times at 2-3 week intervals. Bradford Pears rarely die back so much in one season that they become untreatable.
I have been frantically looking on how to save my trees. I believe that my Bradfords have the Fire Blight. I noticed the tree closest to my house loosing leaves on a Sunday morning and by Thursday almost all the leaves were gone and the branches look like they have been burned, The tree next to it now has leaves changing colors and is looking pale in the colors. I noticed that you recommended “Kocide” as a treatment. Where can I find this product in Austin or Houston? I’m afraid I’m going to loose my trees if I don’t do something quick. Also, once the branches turn Black like my first tree, is it possible that it could come back next year?
Thanks
Harry